When in Rome....Avoid the Romans

The arrangements for our day in Rome....did not go even close to plan. After several changes in plans and then Peg experiencing difficulty with her knee after all the walking (especially Pompei), I ended up on a train to Rome from Civitevechia on my own. Peg knew the walking was going to be just too much for her now swollen knee.

If cost is very important to you, taking the train is by far the best way to go to Rome from the cruise port. It may not be the most comfortable (poor air conditioning, limited seating, etc.). As many web sites will describe, the train station is about 4 or 5 blocks to your right as you leave the port. I bought a train ticket for 9 Euro and found out later that it is good for all trains and busses all day. The person selling the tickets spoke no English (no capiche) and basically waived me off when I tried to ask a question. I did find a uniformed person closer to the platform that was able to describe that I needed to go to track #3. The trains to and from Roma run every 30 minutes and the trip takes about 1 hour 20 minutes. I read it was a good idea to get off at the St. Peter Square train stop (about 3 stops short of the main Roma station) but I didn't do that and instead opted to go all the way in to the main station. I ended up having to get a cab because the main station is a good mile or two from anything else it seems. I had no idea of even what direction to walk in. I didn't study this as much as I wished I had because we were going to have a driver for the day before all of the plans changed.

The cab driver at the Roma station wanted 25 Euro to go about 2 or 3 miles to the Coloseum (at least one other cab driver wanted $50!). I ended up sharing a cab with another couple and before long we were at the Coloseum. The Coloseum is a massive place and a bit overwhelming at first. There are people everywhere wanting to sell you a private tour or some special deal. There are guys dressed like Roman soldiers wanting you to pay them for pictures. A few of us from the ship ended up getting talked into a private tour with about 15 people. If you go in on your own, the line is about an hour long to enter. If you are in a group, they let the group right in and bypass everyone. The entry fee was about 12 Euro and it cost me 25 to be in the group (which included the 12 Euro entry fee) and avoid the line. If you consider how informative the speaker was AND how short your day is going to be, I have to say it is well worth it! I learned in Pompei that if you do not do a private tour guide, you will see all sorts of things but have little idea of (or have to guess at) what you are actualy looking at.

I learned that the Coloseum was actually once all faced in white marble which was later stolen off the structure...leaving the brick and stone structure it is today. I also found out the floor to the arena was actually supported by stone pillars and walls but constructed of wood and covered with sand/dirt. All the wood is gone today of course, but the stone and brick walls still stand. You can see the corridors where wild animals were kept and make shift primative elavators were. It is very erie to see the underground of the arena today. The tour guide pointed out where the emporer, the senate, etc.would all sit. Apparently it was free to attend the happenings in the arena but there was definitley seating sections for different classes of people.

There were two main entrances for the gladiators, both identified by the very tall arched entrances (one on each end of the arena). There are still very small amounts of marble to be found. We walked across one such section of white marble. In one corridor, there is the remains of a white marble life size horse on display....I was amazed to find it was only recently uncovered and carefully excavated in 2008. The horse has no head or legs, but it is clearly a horse... complete with saddle / all pure marble. A single hoof to the horse was also found and is also on display there.

Toward the end of the private tour a few of us from the ship split up and went in different directions. I met Al, Wayne, Wanda, and Nikki from northern Florida and Wayne seemed to know his way around as he had done all of this before. I asked them if they minded me hanging around with them for the day as we were all sort of in the same boat together (a few hours left in Rome, a ship leaving at 8PM, and an unknown train ride of 1.5 hours back to a town I can hardly say much less spell). At this point I had seen the Coloseum, the Forum, and the Arch of Constantine, when everyone decided they really wanted to fo to St. Peters Basilica in the center of Vatican City. While there were so many things to see and do in Rome, I decided that focusing on one thing like the Vatican might be the best idea rather than chasing all over after other sites to see.

We took bus #571 from the main bus stop across the street from the entrance to the Coloseum and in a few miles, we were at the entrance to St. Peter's and blown away by how long the line is. After pondering the idea once again of a private tour guide... and walking right in, we noticed this long, long line moves VERY fast. After wasting 15 minutes wondering what to do we got in line and ended up inside St. Peters Basilica in about 20 minutes! The sites inside are too awesome to describe and the pictures do not do justice to the place. The building itself takes the shape of a cross. There are more alters, statues, paintings, stain glass windows, and other religous scenes inside St. Peters than you can possibly imagine. You literally cannot believe your eyes. At the center of the building where the cross shaped structure....structurally crosses, there are the words at the alter which say ".......and upon this rock, I shall build my church". It was pretty awesome to see and hard to believe. We were all so taken back by the Basilica, Wanda and Nikki insisted we try and get into the Sistine Chapel. In Italian, it is called Sistina Capella.

I was getting a little nervous because now it was 2pm....and we had the 1.5 hour train ride ....and we didn't know where the train station even was.....and we had to leave the Basilica, walk around the vatican walls and up to the vatican museum entrance and go through the museum to even get to the chapel. We went for it though. I would recommend that one NOT go for the private tour idea at the vatican. Just go through the line at St. Peters and make your way to the museum. There seemed to be more groups than anything else at the museum entrance so individuals were actualy moving through quicker! We found ourselves now walking the halls of the Vatican City Museums being more amazed at every turn. It looked a little like the people at the Vatican stole all the marble from the Coloseum! Since most chapels we went through were painted from ceiling to floor, we all became a bit confused as to just where Sistina Capella actualy was! Many of the pictures were taken in the hallways leading to the Sistine Chapel. Once inside, we were all asked to turn our cameras off which I respectfully did, but many people ignored the guards and were snapping away. Of the 138 pictures I took yesterday, none are inside of the Sistine Chapel. It is an amazing place (painted ceiling to floor). I later learned that Michael Angelo worked at the Vatican for 26 years painting the chapel and also many of the works inside the main Basilica. He never finished the Basilica entirely but people he trained did so....well that is what I over heard anyway.

By the time we were done in the museum, it was 3:30 and the train station became our number one priority now as we were out of time. Not too many local people speak English so getting directions became humorous. There were 5 of us asking various people for directions to the train and we at times had 5 different answers! We eventually made it to the St. Peters station and caught the 3:59 back for the ship. We made it in plenty of time but it was no laughing matter for the people I later saw running down the pier as the gangplank was being raised and we were heading for Livorno.

My day in Rome was very hectic. The walking seemed endless and the stairs were countless. The museums at the vatican were numerous hallways really, and you get the impression walking along the way that you will never actually get to....the Sistine Chapel (although we did). The train ride back to the port was so crowded, you were cheek to cheek with those standing around you.....and nobody was getting off the train soon. I was completely beat and couldn't believe what little I saw compared to all that there is to see in Rome. It really did not help that the European Cup Football championship was being played in Rome the night before (always played on neutral ground). Team Barcalona defeated the team from Manchester, England. Thousands came into Rome for the game, most without tickets! They just wanted to be there......as did I, and that is why I went. My recommendation from this learning experience is to start or end a cruise in Rome. By starting or ending a cruise in Rome one can spend a few nights in a hotel and see everything. Visiting for a day and trying to take it all in....well, just cannot be done. You can visit, you just cannot take it all in. If your cruise finds you in Civitevechia for a day, then figure out what ONE thing you would like to see in Rome....and go for it. Be sure to watch your pockets, apparently we have expert pick pockets in Rome, even worse in Spain we hear. We have already heard of two stories on board where people were picked, one gentleman lost $200 Euro, another lost everything at a security checkpoint entering the Coloseum. In the end, I got lucky. I met some great people who sort of knew what they were doing, and we all had fun, but getting around was not all that much fun. The train is cheap.....but you get what you pay for. The people I saw at the dock getting out of Mercedes Mini Vans looked a lot more relaxed than I was (of course they paid $400 Euro for the day compared to my $34 Euro).

I hope to return to Rome one day and when I do a hotel will be involved. As for this visit, Peg made the correct choice in doing what she had to do, and now her knee is all the better for it!

The Ruins at Pompeii

Once again, I guess I should have been paying more attention in European History class. I remember the word Mt. Vesuvius but I don't remember it being a volcanoe that buried the ancient city of Pompeii with lava and ash in 79 AD. Peg and I walked through the ruins today and were surprised to find that it was an entire city that was preserved by the lava. We thought we would walk in a simple circle and see everything....wrong! The ruins really make up and entire city of theatres, markets, temples, homes, and other public areas. It seemed like it was at least a mile long and almost a mile wide. The most awesome sight was the forum where we walked into the arena just as gladiators once did to fight wild animals (and each other). You could see the corridors where the wild animals were kept just inside the arena walls. I found the temples to be just as awesome with many roman pillars still standing today. We were able to tell where the people lived in their homes and how some homes were nicer than others. The kitchen areas had either generic stone counters or counters faced with marble. Perhaps the most surprising to me was the distance of Pompeii from the top of Vesuvius, it seemed like 10 miles away so the thought of lava coming down and covering the city (and even preserving bodies) was wonderous. I later learned that the city was actualy covered / burried with ash as well. The idea of ash
travelling far is more believable than lava. During the uncovering of the city the workers found many pots and other decorative roman figures. All of the items found are on display, you just cannot touch any of them as they are locked behind bars. If we do this again, I think we will pay the extra $10 Euro to have a walking tour guide. These guides take 10 people at a time. If you want your own private guide, it is $100 Euro. We passed many of the guided tours and found that if you have lots of time, the guided tours are very informative and add meaning to the scenes in front of you.

After the tour of the city of Pompeii, we headed back to the ship for some relaxation and swimming (once again very hot today, high 80's). We heard that there is a huge soccer game in Rome tomorrow and thousands of people are arriving....even without tickets from Spain. Our taxi driver told us people are even flying into Naples and hiring taxis to drive them to rome (2.5 hours) for the game because flights to Roma are sold out. We are told that Rome is actually completely crazy on a normal day....I am not sure we are quite ready for what a major soccer competition does to the normality of the city (if there is such a thing). We have heard they are stopping the sale of liqour early today because of all the fights that break out between the fans at the events. Tomorrow should be real interesting.

Heading for Naples

After pulling away from the dock at Sicily, I was surprised to find the ship was going to head East again. I was sure we were going to sail around Sicily heading West because I didn't think there was enough room for the ship to go through the tiny strip of water between the island of Sicily and mainland Italy. As it turns out, we sailed through the straights of Messina. I felt like we were going between the islands up north on Forest Lake! Messina was rather flat and sloping to the sea but at the tip of the toe... of the country of Italy, it is very mountainous! We were on the top deck talking with people and I didn't have my camera so one regret I have now is that there are no pictures of the straights. Peg and I watched the sunset from our room. Later in the evening we passed by the Stromboli Volcanoe in the dark. There wasn't a lava flow but the red ash was spewing into the air and made for a fireworks like display. The ship pulled to within hundreds of yards of the shore for all to see.

We found directions for how to get to a train in Naples that will take us to the ruins at Pompei, so that is our plan for the day. Hopefully, we will have some good pictures by the end of the day.

Catania, Sicily

We missed the 5:15AM viewing of Mt. Etna before pulling up to the pier in Catania. As it turns out, I am glad we didn't set the alarm though because you can see Mt. Etna from just about every vantage point around the city. We took a bus tour this morning from the port to a little village called Taromina (about an hour drive from the port by bus). The village was originally built by the Greeks in the 3rd century BC, and was later completely ronovated by the Romans. At the end of the village is the remains of famous Greco-Roman Theatre built of stone. We took many pictures here and listened to the stories of how Greek Tragedies were performed here. The Romans turned the amphitheatre into an arena and built facilities for wild animals (you could sort of fill in the blanks as to why there were wild animals). The Romans it seems, had sort of a sick sense of entertainment! I have been trying beers from each of the countries visited. So far I like them all!

The bus tour guide was really great....she spoke of Palermo, Messina, Catania, etc. Just listening to her made me want to watch the movie Patton again as it seems so much of the movie centered around the island of Sicily. We were told that Sicily is the largest island in the Meditteranean and has three points (sort of an upside down triangle). What I did find surprising is that Mt. Etna is actually an active volcano and erupted just last May 13th, 2008. One can easily see the steam coming out of the crater all day. I am pretty convinced that the view of Mt. Etna is the same standard desktop background image you can choose using Windows XP. They told us that it takes a clear day to allow us to even see the peek but we saw that mountain top all day.

We drove by a cemetery where soldiers of World War II were buried, it was a grim reminder that the movie Patton.... was much more than a movie.

On to Naples.....

Our Only Sea Day....

On Monday the 25th, we had our only sea day. We sailed from Santorini across the Ionian Sea and headerd toward Sicily. The captain told us we would be passing right by Mt. Etna at about 5:15AM on our way to the port of Catania. The cruise has been going very well thus far and the sea day was a welcome one because you actually need a rest from all the sightseeing every day. Going on a cruise through Europe has a much different meaning than going on a cruise to the Caribbean. Here it is all about the ports, the cultures, the history, and the people. The ship chose our sea day to be te second formal night of the cruise so Peg and I got dressed up and took some pictures around the ship. We have been doing what is called AnyTime Dining for dinner each night which basically means we go to the dining room whenever we want... and they sit us at a table with whomever they want. I refer to it as Dining Roulette. We have been pretty lucky actually as almost everyone seems normal (whatever that is). Most people seem to be from Canada (we haven't had a table yet where one of the guests wasn't from Vancouver, Calgary, Montreal, etc.). Every night we sit down and everyone shares their war story of what it took to actually get to Venice. Last night we met an older couple on vacation with their son Peter who is an artist. His medium is black and white photography. He was travelling with mom and dad through Europe (they actually arrived 2 weeks before the cruise in Berlin, Germany and took a train to Venice). Peter was doing a piece he called the doors of Europe and was photographing every unusual door he saw. Since telling us about this I started noticing all the unusual doors we happened upon and I thought, what an original idea. I hope he writes a book about them one day and publishes all the pictures. Meeting Peter and seeing all the art shops throughout our tavel thus far made me think of Jamie and how she would so love taking a trip like this. The places we have been to thus far are just filled history.... and from the history has come so much in the way of art.

Spectacular Santorini....Eyes Wide Shut

On Sunday morning we gradually sailed into one of the most beautiful places on earth. Amidst a number of Greek isles (too many to count), the port town of Fira on the island of Santorini is high up on the cliffs from the shore. When you get off your tender boat, you have a choice of a long Donkey ride up a switch back path or a ride in a gondola style cable car. We opted for the donkeys going up and the cable car coming back down. The donkey ride was quite an experience as they do seem to have a mind of their own. Guides walk the switch back path all the way to the top in order to keep the donkeys under control. Some people were actually attempting to walk the path.

We dismounted the donkeys near the top and were left with a short walk albeit almost straight up! To be honest, walking up the steep stairs was a bit of a challenge in the 88 degree weather. All the temperatures here are mentioned in celsius so you have to do the conversion in your head. It is roughly like this: take the celsius number and multiply it by two and then add 32. This will give you the approximate farenheight temperature. So 25 celsius is about 82 degrees. The actual conversion is 9/5ths of the celsius number + 32 but that math is a little harder to relate to after a few drinks!

Once we made it to the top of cliffs we visited a few shops and before long we were in a cab with another couple from Toronto, heading for Oia. Once there, Peg and I took photos of the homes and blue domed churches overlooking the cliffs. The main attraction to Santorini has to be the scenery (well, unless you are into shopping because there is an abundance of that there too). The towns of Fira and Oia are as high as 1,000 feet above the shore. After taking a number of photos we headed back down the cliffs by cable car this time. Peg kept her eyes closed the entire way down. Somehow, it all seemed safer that way....

Not a Typical Weekend.......

On Saturday morning we found ourselves just a bit further down the coast of mainland Greece and still in the Ionian Sea on the island of Cephalonia. The island is just south of Corfu and still in view from the western shore of mainland Greece. Cephalonia is the 6th largest in all of the Greek islands. We anchored in a cove near the town of Argostoli where the tender boats took us in. Peg and I had no specific plans today other than to relax a little. We thought about taking a tour up to Lake Melissiani (the mythical nymph Melissa drowned herself here) but opted instead to visit a local beach where we ended up having the entire beach to ourselves. It is said this is where the legendary figure Odysseus went for rest and relaxation. I thought if it was good enough for him, we could certainly give it a go.

We took a few photos and relaxed in the sunshine but did not stay at the beach long as our ship was leaving a bit early today and heading much further east. In the middle of the night we sailed into the Sea of Crete.... and are now sailing up into the Aegean Sea where we are slowly making our way to the island of Santorini. Santorini is only 60 square miles in size and has a coastline of about 43 miles. The island is 70 miles from Crete and 130 miles from Athens. We are told that Santorini is one of the most picturesque islands in the world (so I will be taking some pictures I guess). We met a couple last night at dinner who were on the cruise just before this one doing a
back to back 24 night trip. Santorini was the only stop this cruise... that they had stopped at already.... on the last cruise. The people told us to take the tender boat ashore, ride the donkeys up the cliff (the town of Fira is on a cliff and there is little or nothing actually on shore where the tenders pull up) and then jump on a bus to Oia where there are cafe's and such built over the side of cliffs. The people also told us they saw people attempting to walk back down the donkey path on their way back to the tender boats (not a good idea as the donkey path becomes a bit slippery and messy...and it is not because of rain). Our plan will be to take the donkey's up and ride a cable car (gondola style) back down to our tenders. So instead of cars, trains, planes, and taxis....today will be tender boats, donkeys, busses, and cable cars. I hear the anchor going down...so that means it is time to get dressed, make sure the camera batteries are charged, and head ashore to Santorini....the farthest EASTERN point on the globe (from Chicago) we have ever been.

Corfu Greece.....

One of the side benefits to the cruise experience is that you end up learning about things you didn't expect. I probably should have learned more in World History back in my freshman year of High School. Unfortunately at the time, I simply chose to just try and get through it. Today it seems so much more fascinating. Very early this morning while still sleeping, we left the Adriatic sea and entered the Ioanian sea, then squeezed between a very narrow passage between the island of Corfu Greece and the mainland country of Albania. Over night we travelled 210 nautical miles from Dubrovnik to Corfu. The island of Corfu is long and narrow and sits only a few miles off shore from Albania and mainland Greece. Corfu is the 7th largest Greek Isle which really is saying something considering there are 3,000 Greek Islands (I think they are counting every rock coming out of the water). Before today, I did not know that the island of Crete is the largest Greek Island. Then again I didn't know that the Greeks have a great tasting beer called Mythos or that 40% of all men who live here have a first name of Spirow, but that is another story.

Peg and I boarded a tour bus and headed for the west side of the island. There we visited a resort like community where it is believed that Ulysses came to and was greeted by friendly people after the Trojan war. Aparantly Ulysses was the brains in the operation of the war with Troy. He was the one who engineered the idea of taking ships apart and using the wood to build a huge horse filled with Greeks to concur the people of Troy. I did not know that the Illiad (sp?) and the Oddessey (sp?) were composed by Homer (who was blind). The Illiad tells the story of the Trojan war and the Oddessey tells the story of what happended and what life was like after it. I may have some of this wrong but that is what I understood from the tour guide anyway. Like I said, I wish I studied harder in high school!

We visited a Greek Monestary where 7 Greek Monks live high on a cliff. The place is called PalaioKastritsa which means Very Old Palace. In the Greek church the old custom was to bring valuables to the church and give them up in return for being healed or having a less painful childbirth experience. The church was awesome inside and out. We then headed for old Corfu where we had lots of free time but on the way there, we stopped at a place high on a mountain overlooking Mouse Island. We were supposed to be there for a photo opportunity but I actually found it more interesting because the very newest Starbucks had just completed construction there and the views over the cliff were outstanding.

We ended our day in Old Corfu which was very much like Venice even though there was no waterways. The poor island (for all of its walls and fortresses) had been taken over through the years by Romans, Venetians, the French, and the British. The west end had a huge problem with piracy forcing all the local people to move high into the hills where they could not enjoy the breathtaking beauty of the western shores. Everyone who invaded Corfu left their mark behind. We actually went by ancient Roman baths and an ancient Roman curch (all built of stone) that are still being uncovered by archeologists today.

OK, now I have to get ready for tomorrow. We are about to sail away from here and head for the island of Argostoli. I have no idea what that place is all about, but I am sure I am going to find out!